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My mum was a proper 60s feminist and, amongst many things, she made absolutely sure I grew up doing my fair share in the kitchen and knowing how to cook. One of the plus sides of this was that I got to hang out with my mum a lot. Following the old lady’s lead I’m always roping my older daughter Rosie into helping me cook. She’s five and has helped me make bread, dress salads, peel artichokes and our most recent adventure was shelling a crab. Half anatomy lesson, half cooking lesson and nearly half eaten by Rosie before we were finished.

Anyway, this recipe is a brilliant combination of crab and orange oil and if you can’t be bothered to shell the crab yourself your fishmonger will happily do it for you I’m sure. But make sure you buy the crab already cooked as the fishmonger will be better at killing it swiftly (i.e. humanely) than you.

Ingredients for 4
Crab – 550g/20oz gives about 200g/7oz of flesh
Spaghetti – 350g/12oz
Garlic – 1 clove
Fresh red chilli – 1 or 2
Flat leaf parsley – 20g/0.7oz
White wine – half a glass

Gather together a sharp knife and a hammer (Rosie enjoyed this bit, eagerly hunting down the toolbox). Turn the crab belly-side up. Pull off the triangular-shaped belly flap, which is actually its abdomen. Then turn it over and pull off the shell by inserting your thumb between the body and shell at the back of the crab and pulling the shell up, or use a knife with a similar manoeuvre.

Scoop what you can out of the shell and then crack it in half, if necessary, to get the rest out. Now twist off the legs and work your way carefully through the body compartments, cutting it up where necessary to get to the good bits. Make sure to pull off the spongy gills and any bits of gristle and membrane and discard. Use the hammer to crack open the leg shells, and scoop out the nice bits.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, feed in the spaghetti and cook for the time it says on the pack, stirring a couple of times to stop it sticking.

Finely chop the garlic, halve and finely chop the chilli and roughly chop up your parsley.

Heat the orange olive oil in a large frying pan, add the garlic and chilli and fry for 1 minute. Add the crab meat to the pan with the wine, season with salt and pepper and cook off some of the wine, but not all of it.

Drain the pasta and tip it in the crab mixture. Toss in the parsley and serve.

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We always seemed to arrive at the beach at lunchtime. We headed to the nearest fish restaurant and Cathy and Rosie ordered big steaming heaps of spaghetti alle vongole followed by crispy fritto misto – a mountain of battered scampi, baby squid, anchovies, small crabs, fresh sardines and tiny juvenile flatfish like sole.

Trouble is I don’t eat fish and I usually settle for a pretty bland pasta pomodoro. More recently, though, things have turned around with a new restaurant which opened in Porto San Giorgio. They made me a gem of a pasta pomodoro. The secret according to the friendly waiter is the ricotta cheese in the sauce.

Ingredients for 4 people Cathy teaching Rosie about seafood.
Mixed seafood – 1kg of sardines, anchovies,
whiting, baby sole, small crabs, scampi, baby
octopus, cuttlefish
(or what your fishmonger recommends)
Plain flour – 2 cups
Vegetable oil – 500ml
Sage leaves – several
Lemon – 1 large
Salt and white pepper

The seafood should be quite small, so it’s probably not worth gutting. Anyway they say that the intestines give a slightly sharp taste, and the fried heads are pleasantly crunchy. Sometimes Cathy takes out small bones as Rosie tucks in.

Fritto Misto il mare with lemon on brown paper.Wash, clean and pat dry the seafood. If you do have big squid and cuttlefish cut away the mouth parts and the bone of the cuttlefish. Cut into rings if necessary.

Spread the flour out on a shallow dish. Dip the fish in the flour and shake off any excess. Heat the oil in a large pan with the sage. Once hot enough (test with a piece of old bread, which should brown in about 30 seconds) remove the sage leaves and fry the seafood, starting with the larger pieces. Once golden brown remove and drain on kitchen paper. Serve on a warm plate with lemon wedges and season with salt and pepper.

Recipe Extract from: The Dolce Vita Diaries – Stories and recipes from the olive grove.

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