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This is a very versatile dish – you can substitute many other fish, such as swordfish or grouper. The most important thing is that it’s fresh and from a sustainable source. The fish steams itself in the wrapped parchment paper and goes wonderfully with salad or greens.

Ingredients for 4

Sea bass – 1 fillet per person

Extra virgin olive oil with lemons – 2 tablespoons

Red onion – 1

Fennel – 8 sprigs

Lemon – 8 slices

Capers in olive oil – 4 tablespoons

Dry white wine – half a cup

Salt and pepper to taste

Find a really fresh fish at your fishmonger and – unless you’re an expert – ask them to fillet it for you. If each fillet is huge, divide it in half. Otherwise place a fillet on a piece of parchment paper big enough to wrap the fish and leave an air pocket. Drizzle over the olive oil, pop on the onion slices, then the fennel and next the lemon slices. Sprinkle the capers over the top and season with salt and pepper. Finally sprinkle over the white wine and carefully wrap the fish. Heat the oven to 400oF/200oC/GM6 and bake for 20minutes. Check the fish is cooked through (opaque in the middle) and if not cook for another 5 or 10 minutes. Serve immediately.

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We always seemed to arrive at the beach at lunchtime. We headed to the nearest fish restaurant and Cathy and Rosie ordered big steaming heaps of spaghetti alle vongole followed by crispy fritto misto – a mountain of battered scampi, baby squid, anchovies, small crabs, fresh sardines and tiny juvenile flatfish like sole.

Trouble is I don’t eat fish and I usually settle for a pretty bland pasta pomodoro. More recently, though, things have turned around with a new restaurant which opened in Porto San Giorgio. They made me a gem of a pasta pomodoro. The secret according to the friendly waiter is the ricotta cheese in the sauce.

Ingredients for 4 people Cathy teaching Rosie about seafood.
Mixed seafood – 1kg of sardines, anchovies,
whiting, baby sole, small crabs, scampi, baby
octopus, cuttlefish
(or what your fishmonger recommends)
Plain flour – 2 cups
Vegetable oil – 500ml
Sage leaves – several
Lemon – 1 large
Salt and white pepper

The seafood should be quite small, so it’s probably not worth gutting. Anyway they say that the intestines give a slightly sharp taste, and the fried heads are pleasantly crunchy. Sometimes Cathy takes out small bones as Rosie tucks in.

Fritto Misto il mare with lemon on brown paper.Wash, clean and pat dry the seafood. If you do have big squid and cuttlefish cut away the mouth parts and the bone of the cuttlefish. Cut into rings if necessary.

Spread the flour out on a shallow dish. Dip the fish in the flour and shake off any excess. Heat the oil in a large pan with the sage. Once hot enough (test with a piece of old bread, which should brown in about 30 seconds) remove the sage leaves and fry the seafood, starting with the larger pieces. Once golden brown remove and drain on kitchen paper. Serve on a warm plate with lemon wedges and season with salt and pepper.

Recipe Extract from: The Dolce Vita Diaries – Stories and recipes from the olive grove.

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